Inspired by the phrase, "with a bullet," this cocktail really does stand on its' own as a very palatable, approachable cocktail, while retaining a sense of complexity about it that draws the drinker into the overall flavor, and fragrance, of the short drink. Having heard multiple meanings, the phrase has a connotation of the "best of the best" or the primus inter pares. In all cases, it refers specifically to the Billboard Hot 100 and other music charts from the sixties and seventies. In one instance of meaning, the bullet implies that the album had hit over one million sales; in another, it doesn't refer to specific numeric quantity, but rather whether the sales increased from the previous listing; a third distinct implication is that the song would be a soon to be hit according to the editors, and is something upon which to keep an eye (Kahl). But regardless of the actual specific meaning, as I said, it suggests that regardless of the item discussed, the item is enumerated and well received by a certain set of individuals.
This cocktail calls for specific brands and ingredients; I will note, I have tried it with a few different types of amontillado sherry, and all were disappointments compared to what Jason was using. Plus, sherry is an ingredient that starts to lose its flavor immediately, so depending on how long it has been sitting will assist in influencing the flavor of a cocktail. This goes back to the earlier concept I mentioned of knowing your ingredients. Each spirit has slightly different flavors, and so to make the best cocktail, or to replicate something perfectly, you have to create things in a routine, structured fashion. Jason, alongside Steve Garcia, are big proponents of this concept. Having already spoken about Bénédictine in my article on a Widow's Kiss, I'll briefly discuss the other specific ingredients, and amontillado sherry as a whole.
The principle ingredient of the drink is Bulleit bourbon, which was created in the 1830s by a tavern keeper named Augustus Bulleit; the bourbon, having been made, was being transferred from Kentucky to New Orleans; Augustus vanished without a trace (Bulleit). It was in 1987 that Tom Bulleit decided to recreate Augustus' original flavor. Like Scotch or a wine, with each of their characteristics rooted in the land and ingredients used to produce the final product, Bulleit absorbs a lot of the flavor from the manufacturing process. The bourbon is made in small batches, and features Kentucky limestone-filtered water (which is what Buffalo Trace is doing as well, if I remember correctly) alongside the flavor absorbed from aging in American oak barrels (Ibid). I believe that Bulleit Bourbon is currently being produced by Four Roses Distillery, in Lawrenceburg, Kentucky, which has a five-year contract to make the bourbon for Diageo (Jackson 225). According to Jackson, the bourbon has a bit more rye in it than Four Roses single barrel (Ibid).
For the drink, Tanqueray gin is the botanical spirit of choice. Created and distilled in 1830 by Charles Tanqueray,the distillery operated until it was damaged in World War II, when it was damaged by Axis bomb raids over London (Wikipedia "Tanqueray"). The spirit has three main infusions: angelica, coriander / cilantro, and juniper (Ibid). Coriander, which is commonly referred to as cilantro in various regions, can be used as either a seed or a leaf variety. When used as a spice, it tends to have slight notes of orange peel, and a peppery, floral flavor: this quite probably is the ingredient that is used in infusing Tanqueray; if the leaf variety was used, it would be more of a lemon and harsh flavor (Norman 108, 148). Angelia on the other hand, whether root or leaves, is aromatic; quite often, the herb has a sweet scent, with a musky, earth like finish (Ibid 39). Juniper is a berry that comes from "prickly, evergreen shrubs" that were used as early as by the Romans, who would use it to "replicate" pepper; the flavor is somewhat refreshing, which causes a slight irritation, hence why it can be similar to pepper (Ibid 150-151). The juniper berry is essentially common to all gin, but sometimes may not be the most dominating flavor on the palate, as is the case with Plymouth.
Amontillado sherry is a specific type of sherry that is in the style of montilla (Robinson 20). Sherry, which comes from Spain, can be found in two main varieties, either Pale or fino. Amontillado requires that the sherry be produced in Jerez, and that it is of the fino type, which is then aged into a fino amontillado, and then aged once more to be a true amontillado (Ibid 626). Sherry that loses the complete covering of flor, whether from Sanlucar or Jerez, can be termed and bottled a amontillado (Ibid). The loss of the yeast is an act that changes it from one type to another; when the yeast remains in slight amounts, the sherry is in a sort of hybrid state, classified as a fino-amontillado (if from Jerez) or a manzilla pasada (if it is from Sanlucar)(Ibid). However, while we know what a true amontillado now is, it must be pointed out that many times amontillado sherry is not as it should be: rather, cheap versions are quite often "no more than medium dry sherries blended from inferior quality rayas and sweet wines (Ibid). Commercial forms of amontillado are therefore just a sweetened raya. For this drink, I would say use the highest quality amontillado you can find, especially one that is a true amontillado, but that might adjust the flavor; what Jason is using, while better quality than Hartley and Gibson, may or may not be a true amontillado. He specifically uses Savory and James Amontillado Sherry. One last note concerning sherry: it goes bad quickly, and rapidly loses its' flavor once it is opened. Even if refrigerated, do not expect it to stay past a week.
When I was sitting here enjoying this cocktail, I ended up speaking to Jason about how he mixes drinks. According to Jason, who also paints abstract art as a hobby, he feels that working "unscripted with only a basic idea in mind" produces interesting results. When mixing a drink he takes the same approach, thinking about what flavors would harmoniously blend or mix together even if they seem contrary to one another. But yet, somehow, the most unlikely things turn out to work. This cocktail started off as a sort of abstract cocktail, similar to his painting style, and he basically just worked with the ingredients, using various rules about balance, sweetness, strong and weak while executing the drink and experimenting with it to come up with the design that is listed below. Overall, he treats a cocktail much as if an artist would treat their medium, whether a canvas, clay, et cetera, and so creates this new found idea and product through his efforts and investment in the raw materials.
While served in a footed cocktail glass by Jason, I decided to do something a little different. I served the cocktail in a red wine glass, with a wide yet rounded bowl, in order to encourage the aroma to linger a bit in the glass. I feel that while the drink looks to be very small in terms of volume, the cocktail does have a nice beautiful amber hue, which can be admired while swirling it around the glass, and the aroma is just captured ever so better while sipping the drink. Because of the strong botanicals of the gin, the sherry and the Bénédictine, alongside both of the citrus peels that are expressed into the cocktail, the drink has an immensely complex, and yet soothing aroma, which ought to be admired just as much as the flavors themselves. Smell contributes to our taste, and as such, ignoring the aroma decreases the true merit and value of a cocktail.
Like with other cocktails featuring fortified wines, this one has to be careful when mixing it. Since all the ingredients are clear liquors, it should be mixed. Furthermore, when mixing, you want to chill and dilute a cocktail; however, in the case of this drink, over dilution does not work that well, since it ruins the balance and the flavor of the sherry. As was the case with the Bartender cocktail, over dilution does not really assist the drink since the majority of the flavors going into the cocktail are light and delicate, and quite often, things with which one does not mix.
One last thing, and this cocktail best exemplifies this: while this would most likely be considered a short drink, this cocktail can be nursed for some time. All drinks have slightly different tastes as they warm up, and the temperature affects what effect the liquor will have on our tongue, what comes out as the main flavors, what will be noticed. While ideally drunk quickly, and cold, the drink does take on interesting flavors while it warms up, with the bourbon becoming more prevalent in my opinion, and the sherry taking a bit of a backseat. Overall, the taste is a sort of roller-coaster, much like any other complex beverage, with various things coming through at various times. This is why once more, dilution rate, temperature, and things such as aroma are so important, since they contribute to the overall experience of the drink, and are singular dimensions in the overall scheme of flavor.
Functioning best as an aperitif, this drink features all alcohol components, and quite strong ones at that. Gin, as well as sherry, at least in the dry variety, both function well as aperitifs, or drinks to stimulate the appetite. However, beyond that, Benedictine is quite often used as a digestif. Though, the amount of Benedictine is so small, that it encourages just enough to sweeten the drink and drive it away from extremely low sugar levels in order to better balance the drink. Plus it also ends up highlighting the orange oils that have been expressed on the front of the tongue, and the mid range of the palate. If you get Jason to make a No. 1 with a Bulleit for you, try the cocktail with some braised rolard, which is bacon wrapped in romaine, all of which is wrapped in bacon.
No. 1 with a Bulleit-----
1 ounce bourbon (Bulleit)
1/2 ounce Amontillado sherry (Savory and James)
1/2 ounce Bénédictine
1/2 ounce gin (Tanqueray)
Combine the ingredients in a mixing glass with ice; stir until well chilled, then strain into a footed cocktail glass or wine glass, and express the oils of a lemon and orange peel over the glass.
Bulleit Distilling Company. "The Legend." BulleitBourbon.com. http://www.bulleitbourbon.com/ (accessed May 4, 2010)
Jackson, Michael. 2005. Whiskey: The Definitive World Guide. New York: DK Publishing, Inc.
Kahl, Bruce. Post regarding the phrase "Number 1 with a Bullet." Originally posted April 17, 2005 on The Phrase Finder. http://www.phrases.org.uk/bulletin_board/41/messages/105.html (accessed May 4, 2010).
Norman, Jill. 2002. Herbs and Spices: The Cook's Reference. New York: DK Publishing, Inc.
Robinson, Jancis. 2006. The Oxford Companion to Wine. Originally published 1994. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
Wikipedia contributors. "Tanqueray." Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanqueray (accessed May 2, 2010).
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