The Aberdeen Angus

The Aberdeen Angus is another one of those strange old cocktails that seems to have fallen out of nearly all cocktail books.  Comprised of scotch, Drambuie, lime juice and honey, the cocktail is served neither warm nor cold, and the flavors are dependent greatly upon the type of scotch utilized.  Overall, the drink is a prize, much like the Aberdeen Angus is prized for its meat.

While I cannot find the cocktail in many texts, I can find it in one.  Michael Jackson, the scholar of Scotch and Whiskey, wrote a book on cocktails which does mention the cocktail.  His reference to it in Michael Jackson's Bar and Cocktail Companion: The Connoisseur's Handbook (1995) makes sense, since he is a big proponent and "scholar" on Scotch, especially Single Malt Scotch.  He writes that the cocktail "restores the energy after a strenuous few hours on the grouse moors.  Although Scotch whisky has too delicate a palate to work well in many mixed drinks, this one was made for it" (Jackson Bar 133).  Seemingly this cocktail was made to make Scotch a bit more approachable. The drink may very well have been imbibed by the Scots as they were hunting for snow grouse in the Highlands. 

The cocktail is named after the Aberdeen Angus, as a cow, is a prized specimen, specifically for the well marbled flesh found throughout the cow (Wikipedia).  Originally from Scotland, this species of beef was brought back to the United States, and while first shunned, since it is naturally without horns, it became a widespread favorite of ranchers (Ibid).  Today, the US Government specifically designates qualifying beef as Angus, by not only being of the genotype, but also demonstrating the necessary phenotype to be classified as Angus (Una).  In the late seventies, there was a "special industry designation" which was created to specify beef as "Certified Angus Beef," which is based upon "marbling, tenderness, age, and color" (Ibid).  Within this classification is a grading system.  Those that come from the better grades, id est Prime and Choice, are cuts of beef which come from well marbled young cattle (Ibid).  However, while this designation exists, and it seems that fattier (more marbled) cuts of beef would be preferred in cooking, according to a USDA food report entitled "Food Consumption, Prices and Expenditures, 1970-97" there has been a turn towards producing more exotic, leaner cattle rather than the fatter English breeds (Ibid).  This transition does make sense as we engage in dialogues and concerns about health, more than with concerns of higher quality cuisine.  Although, with the more recent movements towards reviving culinary culture in the United States, there may be a shift back to fattier meats in home consumption.

Like the age of the beef, the age and type of Scotch greatly influence the taste of the cocktail.  Imbibing the drink, you get the characteristics of the Scotch, which has been tamed and augmented by the Drambuie, lime and honey mixed into the drink.   Depending on what type of base scotch you use will determine the primary flavors in the drink.  I use a peaty Islay such as Lagavulin, Ardbeg or Laphroaig in this cocktail, mainly because it takes the exemplary flavors, retains them, and then mutes them with a few other ingredients and tastes.  Because this drink is served warm, or rather, close to room temperature, I see this as more of a winter drink, and something to be consumed prior to bed.  This only provides more reason to choose and Islay Scotch, especially since Lagavulin and Laphroaig can be described as a nightcap, or as "medicinal" (Jackson Complete 303, 306).

What one wouldn't expect, is that the type of honey makes a big difference in the drink.  Honey has different tastes depending on the flower from which it is acquired.  Most often, the honey is named after the type of flower that it is acquired from; having tried it with orange blossom honey, and clover honey I can say that the flavor is slightly different between the two, with the later having a light reticent flavor of clove and the former being a bit more fruit-like and having a more pleasing aroma.  I need to pick up some heather honey, which would be the proper type endemic to Scotland; plus, since the drink already seems medicinal in a sense, the heather honey exemplifies that concept, seeing as it, as well as heather, are reputed as having restorative powers (Healthful Honey).

The drink calls for lime juice, but depending on your preference, lemon juice could also be substituted.  The use of lemon would probably blend better with the Scotch, but with a peaty Scotch, I prefer the strong flavor of the lime to stand up to the smoke taste.  The astringent components of either citrus fruit does provide the cocktail a nice sense of balance.  However, I would avoid a key lime, or a Meyer lemon, seeing as both would be less astringent, and both are associated with the idea of "sweetness" which is not what this drink aims to provide.

While the drink is a showoff, requiring the use of fire, the fire and heating of the Drambuie leads to a slightly warmer temperature, that also caramelizes some of the sugars in the honey in the liqueur.  By burning off the alcohol, it also helps to make the drink more palatable...  Regardless, the warmth of the drink, not only from the temperature, but also the spirits involved, makes the drink a wonderful cocktail that gives the sensation of comradeship around a fire, especially when something strong and peaty like Laphroaig is used in the drink.

Aberdeen Angus:

2 ounces scotch
1 ounce Drambuie
1 ounce lime juice
1/2 ounce honey

Combine the honey, lime and scotch in a glass.  In a ladle, warm the Drambuie over a low flame, ignite it, and pour into the mug.  Give one last stir, and serve.

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Healthful Honey.  "Heather Honey."  Honey Health.  http://www.honey-health.com/honey-18.shtml (accessed April 25, 2010).

Jackson, Michael.  1995.  Michael Jackson's Bar and Cocktail Companion: The Connoisseur's Handbook.  Originally published 1979.  Philadelphia: Running Press.
--.  2010.  Michael Jackson's Complete Guide to Single Malt Scotch: A Connoisseur's Guide to the Single Malt Whiskies of Scotland.  Originally published 1989.  New York: DK Publishing. 

Una.   "What's the big deal about aged beef and Angus beef?"  The Straight Dope.  http://www.straightdope.com/columns/read/2219/whats-the-big-deal-about-aged-beef-and-angus-beef (accessed April 25, 2010).

Wikipedia contributors. "Angus cattle." Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angus_cattle (accessed April 21, 2010).